Azerbaijan is a strange and fascinating country.
Located on the border between Asia and Europe, Azerbaijan
has one of those cultures that are particularly difficult to define, as it is a
Caucasian country with great Turkish and Iranian influence, which was once part
of the Soviet Union. , so the end result is such a strange mixture of opposing
cultures that leaves the traveler very confused.
I have traveled to Azerbaijan twice.
During this period, they introduced an electronic visa
system. Thus, in just two years, tourism has grown exponentially and the
country has begun to enjoy significant international exposure.
Azerbaijan's weirdness is what makes it a particularly
interesting country, and in this guide, I've compiled everything you need to
know about traveling to Azerbaijan.
COVID-related travel bans and restrictions for Azerbaijan
According to the official travel advisory to Azerbaijan, all
travelers wishing to enter Azerbaijan must be fully vaccinated, at least 2
doses.
The negative PCR test is not mandatory for departure but
your country of destination may require it.
Tests cost around 75 manats and are usually arranged with
your hotel. Note that good hotels may add additional fees.
Travel insurance for Azerbaijan with COVID-19 coverage
IATI Insurance is one of the few providers to offer full
coverage against the coronavirus, not only for treatment but also for
cancellation costs in case you tested positive before departure.
Yugo.pk readers can take advantage of an exclusive 2%
discount.
What is the process for getting a tourist visa to Azerbaijan
E-visa is available for travel
to Azerbaijan
Since January 2017, you can apply for an electronic visa to travel to Azerbaijan
and this is the official government portal.
It costs $25 and takes 3 business days to process. It costs
50 USD to get an urgent visa.
Who is eligible to apply for an Azerbaijan tourist visa?
All countries in this list include all western nationalities
and many more.
How long is the validity of the visa for Azerbaijan?
The single visa is valid for 30 days within a 90-day window
- note that there is no double entry visa.
Registration in Azerbaijan
If you are traveling
to Azerbaijan for more than 15 days, you will need to register. You can do
this at your hotel or at the police station itself.
For more information, I recommend reading this Caravanistan
article.
Important – Registration is no joke! In 2016 I skipped this recording (at that time there wasn't much information about it and the limit was 10 days) so when the police found out they told me made to choose between paying a $300 fine or being deported and banned from entering Azerbaijan within a year. After 11 months I tried to apply for the e-visa and it was instantly rejected. In 2019, I managed to enter without any problems.
Best time to visit Azerbaijan
In Azerbaijan, you find 9 out of 11 climatic zones.
From glaciers to vast hot deserts, the Azerbaijani landscape
is full of contrasts. This means that the climate is also very varied, so
depending on where you want to go, Azerbaijan can be a year-round destination.
For example, the mountains are good to visit from April to
October but, if you want to go trekking, summer would be the ideal season.
The region around Baku has a continental climate, which
means that the summer is extremely hot and the winter very cold, but it can be
visited all year round.
It would be best to travel
to Azerbaijan in Mid-Spring and Mid-Autumn, however.
Travel insurance for Azerbaijan
- Azerbaijan is an adventurous destination, so go with the right travel insurance.
- I recommend IATI Insurance because:
- Whether you're a backpacker or a family, it's got a plan for you
- One of the few providers with full coverage against COVID-19
- Readers of this blog can get an exclusive 2% discount
- A book for traveling in Azerbaijan
- Azerbaijan, Georgia, and Armenia Travel Guide by Lonely Planet
- There is no guide focusing exclusively on Azerbaijan, not even from Bradt, but you should get the LP guide to the area.
- The country, the people, and the culture
Azerbaijan today
Following the dissolution of the Soviet Union, Azerbaijan
gained independence in 1991.
Since 1993, it has been ruled by a political party called
the New Azerbaijan Party, a party founded by Heydar Aliyev, who ruled from 1993
to 2003. After his death, his son Ilham Aliyev took over and he still reigns
today.
This political party is said to have no real ideology but is
based on nationalism and a cult of personality centered on Heydar Aliyev, who
is considered the first to make Azerbaijan great and whose name is seen in many
streets, museums, and venues across the country.
On the other hand, Azerbaijan is one of those fake
democracies where the ruling party has been accused of several human rights
violations and authoritarianism, but it seems that its citizens don't complain
about it not a lot.
Arriving in Baku, you will feel like you are in an extremely
developed country, as the majesty of its immaculate streets is perfectly
comparable to many European cities.
However, as soon as you step out of the capital, things
change and you suddenly find yourself in a third-world country. This huge
contrast is explained by the fact that Baku is what it is thanks to oil and,
due to obvious corruption; this growth has been exclusively concentrated in the
capital.
This kind of false development is also explained by the fact
that, while Baku feels much more developed than Tbilisi for example, the
capital of Georgia is much more socially developed than Baku, a city where it
is sometimes even difficult to see mixed groups of men and women.
Religion in Azerbaijan
Azerbaijan is a supposedly Islamic country, with 85% of the
population being Shia Muslims and the rest Sunnis. Nevertheless, Azerbaijan was
the first Islamic country to declare itself a democratic and secular republic
(in 1918).
This means that many people in the country are atheists,
like their Central Asian brothers and sisters, so religion is not really a big
issue here, especially in Baku. In fact, there are very few functioning
mosques.
The personal story of my local friend
During my trip, I met a young man from Baku who turned out
to be very religious. In fact, he has a Muslim beard and his wife wears a
hijab, which is not very common in Azerbaijan. Anyway, he told me that his wife
got a job in a public TV station, but they told her that she had to take off
her hijab to come to the office. She obviously refused to do it, and
apparently, that wasn't an option, so she ultimately couldn't get the job. It's
probably the only Muslim country where these things happen.
People: Azerbaijanis
Physically, most Azerbaijanis look a bit Iranian but a bit
different. From a cultural point of view, as I said at the beginning, it is
difficult to define them as a single culture. Certainly, they have similarities
with their neighbors in Georgia, even Armenia, but they also have many Iranian
customs.
For example, they are big tea drinkers, and they drink it
the same way Iranians do, using the same type of glasses and the same amount of
sugar.
However, you are likely to see them drinking a glass of
vodka right after tea, and when you go to rural areas, you really feel like you
are in Georgia, because the people look a bit alike and the houses have a very
similar style of architecture.
To make it even more surreal they speak Turkish and you can
still see a lot of Russian influence.
It's just weird and no matter how hard you try, you can't
quite define their culture as a whole.
Hospitality
Azerbaijanis are hospitable, not as much as my friends from
Iran obviously, but they were fine, maybe more than in other Caucasus
countries. Is it because they are Muslim
I do not know, maybe. In my case, random tea invites were
common and I keep in touch with 1 or 2 friends who never allowed me to pay for
a meal.
Language in Azerbaijan
Azerbaijani is the official language of the country, which
is a Turkish dialect. Of all the Turkic languages spoken, from Kyrgyzstan to
Azerbaijan, Azerbaijani is the closest to Turkish.
Most people will also speak Russian but, apparently, not as
well as their Central Asian neighbors. As for English, in Baku, some young
people can speak it but that's all.
Is Azerbaijan an off-the-beaten-path destination?
Glad you asked.
As I said at the beginning, after the introduction of the
electronic visa system in January 2017, tourism has grown exponentially.
You will see that today Baku is full of backpacker hostels and tour groups abound. Destinations such as Sheki or Lahic also welcome a fair amount of tourists, and in remote villages such as Xinaliq, you can already find a wide range of official homestays.
Nevertheless, Azerbaijan is still an emerging tourist
destination, and the number of tourists is not even comparable to any country
in Europe. In fact, outside of the main tourist towns, you're probably the only
tourist hanging around.
Places like the Nakhchivan Autonomous Republic, Ivanovka,
and towns and villages around Ganja are truly unspoiled destinations you don't
want to miss.
If you want to experience the real Azerbaijan, I strongly
encourage you to check out these destinations. In my itinerary, in Azerbaijan,
you will find more information about these places.
- How to get to Azerbaijan
- Traveling in Azerbaijan is very easy.
Getting to Azerbaijan by plane
Baku International Airport has many connections to Europe
and many other countries in Asia and the Middle East.
Traveling to Azerbaijan by land
Georgia - There are two very friendly open borders with
Georgia, one connecting Zaqatala with Sighnaghi and the other connecting Ganja
with Tbilisi. The second can be crossed by train, and in fact, there is a
direct night train from Tbilisi to Baku.
Iran – The border with Iran is also open and very
user-friendly, but remember that if you are going to Iran you will need to have
an Iranian visa.
- I also recommend that you read my 80 tips for traveling to Iran.
- Russian border - Foreigners are currently barred from entering this country.
What's going on with Armenia?
Armenia and Azerbaijan are technically at war, mainly due to
the Nagorno-Karabakh conflict, so the border with Armenia is permanently
closed. Nevertheless, you should know that having an Armenian visa on your
passport does not prohibit you from traveling
to Azerbaijan (and vice versa), so you shouldn't worry about it at all,
other than undergoing a standard interrogation.
However, if there is evidence that you have traveled to
Nagorno-Karabakh, which is only accessible from Armenia, you will be banned
from entering Azerbaijan for the rest of your life. Please note that to enter
Nagorno-Karabakh you get a different passport stamp but apparently, nowadays
you can ask them to stamp it on a separate sheet of paper.
Traveling to Azerbaijan by sea
Kazakhstan - You can travel
to Azerbaijan by boat on the Caspian Sea from a Kazakh town named Aktau. It
takes 24 hours and you need a dose of patience because it leaves every few
days, randomly. Read my 35 useful tips for traveling to Kazakhstan.
Turkmenistan – If you are lucky enough to have a Turkmen
visa, you can also take the boat from Turkmenistan to Azerbaijan.
Money in Azerbaijan
There is an Azerbaijani manat (ANZ) in use in Azerbaijan,
and the following is its approximate value:
1€ = 1.80AZN
ATM and credit cards
In Baku, you can use your credit card just about anywhere
and there is no shortage of ATMs. However, once you leave the capital, it is
best to bring some cash with you. You can find ATMs in smaller towns, but you
can't really pay by card.
Change money in Azerbaijan
There are many exchange offices across the country.
How much does a trip to Azerbaijan cost?
Azerbaijan is really cheap. In fact, leaving chic Baku
aside, it's one of the cheapest countries I've been to. Here are the costs of
the most typical things:
- Backpackers hostels – 7 to 15AZN (3.50€ to 7€)
- Cheap bed and breakfast – 30 to 40AZN (15 to 20€)
- Hotels in the mid-range - 60 to 80AZN (30 to 40€)
- Fast food (Doner kebab, sandwich, etc.) – About 2AZN (1€)
- Local gastronomy (one meal) – 2 to 5AZN (1 to 2.50€)
- Mid-range restaurants (Normally, only available in Baku) – 8 to 15AZN (4 to 7.50€)
- Supermarket (can of beer) – 0.50 to 1AZN (0.25 to 0.50€)
- Economy bars or happy hour (local draft beer) – 1AZN to 2AZN (0.50 to 1€)
- In Baku, you can get a taxi between 2 and 3AZN (1€ - 1.50€).
- It costs 0.30AZN (0.15€) to ride the metro in Baku
- Getting from Baku to Quba takes three to four hours by bus for 6AZN (3€).
Food and cuisine in Azerbaijan
Like its people, Azerbaijan's cuisine is a true blend of
cultures and flavors, with influences from across the region, from Turkey to
Russia, Iran, and even Greece.
From many tzatziki Greek yogurt skewers to Uzbek plov,
Turkish dolma, and Iranian dizi, during my trip, I tasted something different
every day.
The majority of Azerbaijanis have never left their country,
so they will always tell you that these dishes originated in Azerbaijan, and
depending on how you look at it, they may be right, as all of their dishes are
local variations of the dish original.
Azerbaijan travel tip
- Baku is certainly more expensive than the rest of the country, but from
Monday to Friday most restaurants offer a set lunch menu where, for just €2 or
€3, you'll get a full menu.
My favorite dishes from Azerbaijan
Piti - One of the most typical dishes consists of
vegetables, lamb, and chickpeas, all cooked in a clay pot and covered with lamb
fat. When served, you mash it as if it were mashed potato. You can also find a
variation of this dish in Iran called dizi.
Yarpak Xangal - It consists of layers of pasta, meat,
caramelized onions, and yogurt. A very heavy dish. In Central Asia, there is a
similar thing called beshbarmak.
Dushbara - A dumpling soup typical of the northwestern part
of the country. The Kazakhstani call it pelmeni and you can find it here as
well.
Drinking alcohol in Azerbaijan
As in other beloved ex-Soviet Muslim countries, alcohol is
not really haram (things forbidden in Islam), so beer and vodka are available
all over the country, even in small villages.
In fact, many cafes in rural areas have a barrel of draft
beer but it's really very bad because it's low on gas and it's really badly
served.
Drink vodka with locals
If you're lucky, you might be able to drink vodka with
Azerbaijanis, but remember that if you're okay with it, you have to finish the
whole bottle. When I was in Nakhichevan, I went to dinner with my host's
family, and when we ordered drinks, his father asked me if I wanted to drink
vodka.
I said OK, figuring everyone at the table would be drinking,
so we'd have 1 or 2 shots per person.
However, apparently, everyone said no except me, so her dad
forced me to drink half the bottle before I even finished eating. I was the
drunken person in the restaurant and the next day I felt so embarrassed but luckily
in Soviet countries, they are used to people being drunk so everyone laughed
the next day.
Just know that if you don't really like drinking, it's
better to say no from the start. Otherwise, if you only have one or two hits,
you will be considered a pussy.
Beer snacks
If you take beers with Azerbaijanis, you'll see that they
always have to order something called beer snacks, which range from smoked
cheese to fried meatballs. If you want to do what the locals do, order them
every time you have a beer at a bar.
Transport: how to get around in Azerbaijan
- Getting around in Baku
- Metro – In Baku, there is a pretty cool metro and a single ride costs 0.30 AZN. However, you must first buy a 4AZN metro card.
- Uber – Download this app to get around Baku by taxi.
- For more information on transport in Baku, read my guide to the city of Baku
Getting around in Azerbaijan
Marshrutka - Locals travel across the country in
marshrutkas, which is what public minivans are called in former Soviet
republics. They're really cheap, leave when they're full, and they're connected
to virtually every city in the country.
Train – The train goes from Baku to Ganja and then continues
to Tbilisi. However, it does not follow the main tourist trail, so you will
have to rely on marshrutkas.
Domestic flights - I took a domestic flight from Baku to the
enclave of Nakhichevan, which is the only way to get there. I flew with
Azerbaijan Airlines.
Car rental - Traveling
in Azerbaijan with a rental car is safe, doable, and efficient, especially
around Quba, as you will be able to get to places that are a bit difficult to
reach by public transport.
Accommodation: where to stay in Azerbaijan
There is a wide range of accommodation throughout the
country, from hostels to guesthouses, homestays, and regular hotels, including
many 5-star hotels in Baku.
- In my itinerary in Azerbaijan, I recommend several hotels in each city.
- Internet and SIM card
- Wi-Fi – This works surprisingly well nationwide.
- SIM card – I recommend Azercell. You can buy a SIM card in many mobile stores, but you need to go to Azercell's official store because you will be charged the actual price. There's a big one in Fountain Square, and for a few manats, you get a lot of data.
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